Whirlpool Free Standing Electric Range RF396LXEQ0 Timer Repair

The other day our oven would not maintain temperature or shut off using the touch pad controls. I had to shut off the breaker. I located the control module (pt # 3195101, replaced by Whirlpool with #6610057) and there was not any apparent damage (overheating, corrosion, etc). I'm wondering if the problem is in the electronic module or some other part. The replacement module is about 1/3 the cost of a new range. Curt W

Our oven door is locked and we can't get it unlocked. We had a major power failure and now the door is locked. It has an F5 error which will not clear

We were baking some cinnamon buns and we heard a noise and looked and the oven went into a self clean mode but also said cool on the display. We tried canceling but it would not cancel. We heard a beep a few minutes later and the display showed an F3 code. We unplugged the oven after it cooled off we plugged it back in. The door unlocked but the boiler element stayed on. It also showed a PF on the display. We have had to unplug it because when it is plugged in even with all functions off the broiler element remains on.

We got this oven off of Freecycle. The previous owner had the same problem we are now having. However, I plugged it in and had no problems for 6 weeks. Then all the sudden... The first time the oven was being used then just kept getting hotter and hotter and would not shut off. I had to throw the breaker. Now, every time I even turn on the breaker the oven comes on. I don't touch a button. Just as soon as it has power it starts heating up. Eventually it shows the error codes E2 F3. I did some research online and replaced the oven sensor, but that didn't work. Any ideas?

oven will randomly display error code E2/F3. The broiler element will automatically come on. I've turned power off to reset. I've tested the sensor and it checks out at 1079 ohms @ 68*. Next step control panel?

My Whirlpool range must have some kind of wiring problem. Just replaced the ECP and yet it still isn't working right. The electronic display does not work unless you have two burners turned on at the same time. IT will then allow you to set the time and start the bake process but powers off intermitendly and then back on. Or if you just have the time showing and you open the oven door, it starts then off and on again. After you turn the burners off within about 2 minutes the display panel goes black again. What could be causing this?

I shattered the outer glass of the oven door. I ordered for the glass and side and bottom trim. I got the bottom trim to fit well. The side plastic trim also fits in well, but without the glass. The glass juts out by 1/8th of an inch OVER the plastic side trim and will not go under the trim. This does not feel right as I think the side of the trim should be net with the side of the glass so that glass is not exposed and may not shatter. My question is whether whirlpool has the replacement glass bigger than it should be or should the trim come in front of the glass and how? Maybe giving instructions as to the order of parts that go in. Do I drop the sides into the slots before the glass goes in or after? When my oven was dropped off, I did not get the door removal pins. How do I get them? Would a technician be able to correct this?

Hello, I am having a problem with the Self Cleaning feature on a RF396LXEQ0 oven. When I attempt to use the self cleaning feature the door will not lock, no noise at all and then I get the E1 F5 error. I have removed the back and checked continuity on the solenoid and get a reading of 57. I want to check the door switch, but for the life of me can't figure out to open the glass top to access the switch. What am I missing. I removed the two screws on the front of the top at the oven opening. Any help would be appreciated.

I have a Whirlpool Self cleaning oven model RF396LXEQ0. Purchased in 1998. When I went to clean the oven I am getting error code E1 F5. The door latch is not operating. I think that the solenoid that operates the door latch is defective but I want to make sure due to the cost of $100.00. Of course, I don't want to spend the money unless I am sure that is what the problem is. Having lifted the range top, it doesn't look difficult to replace. Can you give me any simple test procedures to determine if it is the solenoid? I have read that it could also be the controller and I am sure that is really expensive.

I have a Whirlpool self cleaning oven. I had a power outage and when the power came back on the oven did not. I checked voltage a receptacle with range unplugged, and I have 240 v between line 1 and line 2, and 120v between line 1 and neutral and 120v between line 2 and neutral. when I plug in range to receptacle and open back of range I have have 240v between line 1 and line 2, 240v between line 1 and neutral, and no voltage between line 2 and neutral. The Model of the Whirlpool is RF396LXEQ0 purchased in 1996.No lights or displays come on at all.